Travelogue from Kilimanjaro: the Machame Route

Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, is the ultimate ambition for many. During my time at Afrika Safari I have had many phone conversations with excited customers preparing for their trip, and I have answered countless practical questions about everything from walking boots to toilet facilities. I know the schedule inside out, and I have read other travellers’ accounts of the trip. In September 2014 it was finally my turn to experience Kilimanjaro. I had no idea that it was so beautiful. I would not have believed that I would be served such excellent meals at an altitude of 4,000 m, nor that it would take a team of 16 to support a group of four climbers. I didn’t know that you could get so tired and out of breath from walking so slowly. And I had not imagined that the final night would be so tough. It was an unforgettable experience that will be burnt onto my retina for ever.

The following account of the stage from Base Camp to Uhuru Peak is taken from my diary:

“At 11.30 p.m. we are ready and we begin the slow climb to the summit. The first section is steep and icy. Progress is slow, but I feel OK. Fortunately, we have become acclimatised to the altitude. Behind us we can see the lights of others who have started after us. Ahead of us, up across the mountain, there are lights from many head torches. Our route takes us up and up and up! Our legs start to get heavy. Slow progress.

“After a few hours, the nausea kicks in. It comes and goes in waves, and the body feels powerless. One of our guides takes my backpack and gives me some heat packs for my mittens. It’s a bit easier without the pack. One step at a time. Gradually others in the group run out of strength.

“After six hours it is dark and very cold. I simply focus on the boots in front of me and breathe deeply to get enough oxygen. Shortly before Stella Point, the sky lightens in the east. Just after sunrise we reach Stella Point. There are tears, relief and pride. It is cold and clear. A short pause, but not for long, before we continue to Uhuru Peak. It doesn’t look far, but it ends up taking 45 minutes. But the sun is shining! And the view is amazing. Below us we can see clouds and glaciers sparkling in the sunshine. The crater to our right.

“At 7.26 a.m. I reach the summit and pose for the obligatory photos in front of the sign. Proud, weary and happy.

“Ten hours later, back down at Mweka Camp, the experience of the night seems unreal. It is amazing that we found the strength and pressed on through all the barriers. I am proud. Dinner tastes good, but we are just eating for the sake of it. At 7 p.m. we retire to our tents. For the first time since we started, I fall asleep immediately, and I don’t wake up again until 7 a.m. the following day.”

Ingun, TourCompass