Travelogue from Vietnam: A love letter to Hanoi

In March 2023, our Online Marketing Specialist Louisa, visited Vietnam on a tour from north to south. Read about what she experienced here. 

The charming chaos of Hanoi Old Quarter

The adventure began from my seat in the plane, peering out of the window at the lush green landscape of Northern Vietnam. As I gazed down at the colourful houses and smallholdings dotting the countryside and the mountains shrouded in mist in the distance, I knew then that I was entering a new world. I couldn’t be more excited. 

We began our tour of Vietnam in the capital city of Hanoi, which quickly captured my heart and proved to be an ideal starting point. Visiting in March, we were greeted by cooler temperatures (ranging from 21-25°C) compared to the hotter and more humid climate we would encounter in the south at the end of our trip. This allowed us to acclimatise to the conditions gradually and made for a much more comfortable trip going forward. 

As we wandered through Hanoi for the first time, we encountered a myriad of sights and sounds. It’s easy to fall in love with the electric atmosphere and energy of this place. You are thrown into a world of bustling streets teeming with zigzagging scooters, food vendors, and throngs of people going about their daily lives. Although the chaos may seem overwhelming at first, after spending some time here, you realize it’s not chaos at all, but rather a hectic flow that just works. Life happens on the streets, everyone sharing the space, in a sort of organized mess. The people are truly the heartbeat of Hanoi, all making the most out of what the city has to offer.   

I found the old quarter, a chaotic blend of oriental and French colonial architecture stacked on top of each other, particularly charming. Here you’ll pass by bicycle vendors, offering ripe fruit and fragrant flowers, while the tantalizing aroma of street food wafts through the air.  

The longer you explore, the more hidden gems you’ll uncover, from quaint alleyways to charming coffee shops tucked away in secluded corners. The insider knowledge of our local guide, Hai, who was born and raised in Hanoi, was invaluable, and he delighted in sharing stories about the city’s history and its most interesting streets.  

Sunday night is family night

The emerald, green Hoàn Kiem Lake forms the heart of urban Hanoi and is an ideal hangout spot. Lucky for us, we arrived on a Sunday, which is celebrated as ‘family night’ in the old quarter. The streets surrounding Hoàn Kiem Lake are closed off to cars and scooters, creating a magical playground for all ages. Children run around freely, playing games, and enjoying the festive atmosphere. Musicians and bands set up on street corners, filling the air with a mix of traditional and electronic music that draws in large crowds. 

The next day, I felt more confident about navigating Hanoi’s busy streets after spending a few hours exploring and mastering the art of crossing the roads. As I settled down for breakfast in my hotel, I found myself mesmerized by the city coming to life outside my window. I watched businessmen and women dismount their scooters and sit on low plastic tables and chairs around street food vendors, starting their working week with a morning Pho or a quick baguette and a cup of coffee. I was struck with the way the people here seamlessly blend the city’s vibrant street culture into their daily lives.  

Traditional artisans and their old-world charm

In today’s modern world, many traditional jobs have become obsolete, but in Hanoi, the old ways of work are still very much alive. Almost every corner of the Old Quarter is lined with skilled artisans, each street dedicated to a different craft. From blacksmiths to carpenters, silversmiths to coppersmiths, painters to florists, the list of trades is endless. 

I thoroughly enjoyed exploring this area, watching these skilled individuals at work, handling orders from locals, mending items and crafting new products. Although sometimes with lower levels of health and safety than we are used to at home, their presence adds an immense charm to the city. It ensures that the past is not forgotten but preserved as part of a city with a history dating back thousands of years. 

A glimpse into a family of silversmiths

One of the experiences in Hanoi that left a lasting impression on me was visiting a local family, who lived in the heart of the old quarter close to Hang Bac Street, also known as “silver street”. With a family history spanning several generations of silver jewellers, we were welcomed into their humble abode through the shop front and into a cosy courtyard. In the centre, stood a fresh water well that had been functioning for hundreds of years. This small oasis tucked away from the busy street had been the family’s home for over 180 years, and it was truly a remarkable glimpse into their way of life. 

The family warmly welcomed us with their version of ‘tea and biscuits’. We were served freshly brewed jasmine tea and an assortment of Vietnamese snacks including candied ginger, mung bean cubes, and sesame and peanut candy. With the guide serving as our interpreter, they spoke fondly of growing up in the cosy streets, where they knew every neighbour and would often take part in celebrations together.

They dedicated a significant part of their home to a family Buddha altar, which they used to honour and worship their ancestors. This altar plays an integral role in their daily lives, and it was a beautiful sight to behold. A large mahogany cabinet adorned with photographs, fragrant incense, candles, and offerings, such as fresh fruit and candy. I found it moving, coming from a culture, where many of us might struggle to name our family members beyond two or three generations back.

Witnessing this practice of showing gratitude to all those who came before us was more impactful than I could have imagined. It reminded me of how powerful it is to travel and how it allows you to learn about other cultures, reflect on your own life, and take what sticks back home with you. 

Best regards, 

Louisa 

TourCompass – From tourist to traveller