Travelogue from family adventure in Sri Lanka: Magical moments and memories for life

In April 2023, Mira and Dino visited Sri Lanka with their three children.

Fasten your seatbelts!

You could feel the pressure in your ears. The captain had begun the descent, and we were told that we would soon be landing in Colombo. The blue sky out of the aeroplane window was momentarily replaced by dense white clouds, and then suddenly, there it was!

Sri Lanka! Paradise! Lush and carpeted in a countless shades of green in a beautiful interplay with the azure sea that embraced the coastline like a faithful companion.

The plane touched down gently on the runway and we were brought back to reality. An adventure had begun.

The first meeting

We said goodbye to the smiling flight attendants and hello to the smiling Sri Lankans. Our guide Sujid was waiting for us at the airport, and we drove out to our first hotel at Negombo Beach.

Our arrival in Sri Lanka was the day after the traditional New Year celebrations, which meant that many Sri Lankans were also enjoying time off with their families. This created a wonderful atmosphere of joy and celebration, and it was a special experience to be able to enjoy our first day together with the local families.

After the long flight, Negombo Beach was the ideal place to relax. The kids enjoyed the pool, and we got to explore the beautiful beach where we played in the waves and enjoyed life’s simple pleasures.

We used Google Maps to find a nice restaurant with good reviews close to the beach. Modest though it looked, we were pleasantly surprised by the good service and the fantastic food. We enjoyed sitting at the rustic table and feeling the breeze from the sea. It was an authentic and memorable experience.

The ancient capital of the kings

After a good night’s sleep, we set off for Kandy, the city that was once the capital of Sri Lanka.

We soon realised that Sri Lanka constantly offers exciting experiences and impressions.

Our first stop on the way was at a spice garden, where we had the opportunity to experience a world of taste sensations. We were introduced to the world’s smallest pineapple, enjoyed a delicious cup of “home-grown” cocoa with vanilla and learned about Sri Lankan natural medicine.

We usually always have some crisps, sweets and chocolate with us on longer drives, but it was not necessary at all. Sujid made sure we could taste all the delicious, fresh fruit at the roadside stalls along the way. Our favourite was the red banana.

After lunch, where we enjoyed the view of one of Sri Lanka’s long rivers, we arrived in Kandy. Kandy is surrounded by scenic mountain landscapes with the most beautiful lake at its centre.

We were checked in at our hotel, which enjoyed an elevated position, giving us a fantastic view of the whole city, even from the swimming pool. In the evening, Sujid accompanied us down into the city for a lovely lakeside walk. Then we experienced a traditional dance performance, culminating in an impressive fire dance.

The last and greatest experience of the evening was the Temple of the Sacred Tooth. The temple is said to house the Buddha’s sacred tooth. The story goes that the tooth was saved during the Buddha’s cremation and has been preserved as a relic ever since. It was a deeply moving experience to feel the religious atmosphere and understand the importance of the temple to the faithful.

Back at the hotel, we enjoyed a delicious dinner with live Sri Lankan music. And it goes without saying that we enjoyed a dip in the pool and the sight of all the lights illuminating the whole of Kandy before bed. It was the perfect end to an adventure-filled day!

Possibly the most scenic train ride in the world

After a lovely breakfast at the hotel in Kandy, where we enjoyed the beautiful view of the city one last time, we left for Ella.

Today, we would be going on the iconic train ride from Kandy to Ella, which is known to be one of the most scenic train rides in the world.

Before the train ride, we drove higher into the mountains to visit a tea plantation, where we were given a guided tour and learned about tea production. And naturally, the visit ended with nothing less than one of the most delicious cups of tea we have ever tasted.

After a short drive and some delicious Sri Lankan “fast food” from the roadside stalls, we arrived at the train station.

As the train slowly rolled into the platform, we could barely contain our excitement. The train ride was one of the things we’d really be looking forward to on our tour in Sri Lanka.

And it certainly lived up to our expectations – and some! It was like being sucked into nature’s own masterpiece.

It was breathtaking and an experience we’ll never forget. The views were incredible, and we were constantly surrounded by a green oasis that stretched as far as the eye could see. On the ride, we experienced the most beautiful mountain landscapes and breathtaking waterfalls. We passed small villages where we could see the locals going about their daily business, children on their way to school, and people working in the endless tea plantations.

Ella – Sri Lanka’s scenic treasure in the mountains

We hopped off the train in Ella, a town known for its breathtaking natural beauty, verdant landscapes and fairy-tale atmosphere – and which would be the backdrop for our experiences over the next few days. We waved goodbye to the train and walked out to the front of the station, where our lovely guide Sujid was waiting for us again.

We drove to the charming and vibrant centre of Ella. We were staying at Mountain Heavens, a hotel scenically situated in the mountains. Sujid had hired two tuk-tuks to take us up there as the road was quite narrow. The kids were ecstatic at the chance to ride in a tuk-tuk, and although they’re small, these vehicles could easily accommodate an adult, two children and our suitcases while climbing the steep hill.

When we entered the hotel reception, we were greeted by a fantastic view, which would prove to be a consistent feature of our entire stay there. Whether we were sitting on the terrace outside our room, eating in the hotel restaurant or relaxing by the swimming pool, we could always enjoy the beautiful view of Ella Gap. The view consisted of a valley and distant mountain peaks, and it was truly impressive. It was undoubtedly one of the most beautiful views we have ever seen.

We decided to set aside a whole day to enjoy both the hotel, Ella and the breathtaking surroundings around us. It was a day when we could have time to ourselves as a family and just relax and enjoy each other’s company.

And, of course, we also spent a whole day experiencing some of the best things Ella had to offer.

We started early in the morning on our hike up to the summit of Little Adam’s Peak. Along the way, we passed through beautiful tea plantations, and when we reached the top, we were rewarded with the most amazing view. We could see mountains, forests and tea plantations stretching as far as the eye could see. The hiking trail was relatively easy to walk, even for the kids – but we were careful to drink plenty and take small breaks along the way.

When we were back down, we took tuk-tuks to the Nine Arch Bridge, which has become an iconic symbol of Sri Lanka over the years. The bridge with its nine impressive stone arches was built during the British colonial period and was an impressive feat of engineering in its day. The last leg of our trip demanded a hike along the train tracks before reaching the bridge. The area around the bridge was surrounded by thick jungle and beautiful tea plantations. The absolute highlight for all of us, young and old, was when the train came roaring out of the tunnel and drove over the bridge.

After our visit to the Nine Arch Bridge, we continued to Ella town centre for lunch with Sujid. The kids were tired after the day’s adventure and kept asking if we could go back to the hotel for a dip in the amazing pool. As always, Sujid had a surprise up his sleeve and suggested we visit a beautiful waterfall to bathe. The kids were extremely excited by this and almost couldn’t wait to get lunch over with and get going.

After a scenic drive of around 20 minutes through the impressive mountains, we finally reached the waterfall, where we spent a couple of unforgettable hours swimming and climbing on the rocks.

We also managed to fit in one last dip in the swimming pool and enjoy the great view from the hotel. And to the children’s great delight, we had an unexpected visit from a group of monkeys by the pool.

Elephants and wildlife at Udawalawe National Park

We said goodbye to Ella and headed off to new adventures in Udawalawe National Park, which is known for its incredible biodiversity and large elephant population. The park plays an important role in the conservation of Sri Lanka’s wildlife, particularly the endangered elephant population.

During our stay, we would stay in the most beautiful camp, which was situated right on the river in genuine jungle surroundings. Every morning, we enjoyed breakfast right down by the river, and in the evening, we played cards out on the terrace and listened to all the sounds of the river and the forest.

The safari experiences in Udawalawe were exciting and teeming with wildlife. The highlight without a doubt was experiencing the majestic elephants right up close. It was hard not to be overwhelmed by their impressive size and breathtaking beauty. We spent ages just observing them and taking pictures of their majestic presence. We also saw a lot of exciting birds and even a crocodile – much to the delight of the children.

The perfect ending

We spent the last few days in Mirissa, where we were able to digest all that we had seen and done on our tour in Sri Lanka.

The beach in Mirissa was lovely. The crystal clear waters and soft golden sands were made for endless hours of relaxation and swimming, and in the evening, Mirissa transformed into a vibrant oasis of colourful beach restaurants.

The memories and the people who make them special

Our guide, Sujid, was the cornerstone of our unforgettable experience in Sri Lanka. His expertise, kindness and knowledge made our tour a real pleasure. He shared his passion for the country’s history, culture and wildlife with us, making every day an educational and entertaining experience.

He was more than a guide; he was a friend. His delight in seeing our children enthralled by the beauty and culture of Sri Lanka was infectious, and he took the time to answer their (and our) questions and explain everything from wildlife to local customs.

We are deeply grateful for Sujid’s efforts and dedication to make our tour so very special. He has left us with memories and a feeling that we didn’t just visit Sri Lanka as tourists, but that we really experienced the country in a meaningful way thanks to his hospitality and expertise. We will forever cherish the time we spent with him in this beautiful country.

Dino & Mira, TourCompass